Three Dreamlike Weeks in Paris
Channelling Hemingway, Simone de Beauvoir, and the great artists of Montmartre.
It’s been almost 10 years since I last visited Paris.
I still remember the first time I arrived, pushing through the crowds of Charles de Gaulle Airport and starting to hear the distinctive sound of French. I’d spent a very long time studying the language in high school and university, and after going on an exchange to Montréal and living with three French housemates there (who did a great deal to help my spoken French), it felt like I was coming home.
Standing there at the airport at 23 years old, it was also my first proper holiday after starting my graduate job in magazines. I felt like I’d finally made it as an adult, going on this spectacular solo adventure. My heart soared with anticipation.
That is, until I rocked up on the doorstep of my hostel in the 19th arrondissement and tumbled swiftly back to reality.
Dark, dingy and dirty, there was an eerie quiet to the neighbourhood, and not a single woman in sight on the streets or in the bars. I had to ask myself whether it was indeed France I had landed in.
It was for this reason (amongst others), that after leaving Paris and continuing to travel to other beautiful corners of France over the next three weeks, I made up my mind that Paris was my least favourite city in France.
And yet, here I am in 2024 — back in Paris, 9 years later. Solo again.
Why? Because, after the passage of time I felt that I hadn’t really done the city justice. I’d only ever stayed for 4-5 days at a time, and thought to myself that now with more age, experience, and a little bit more money, perhaps I could appreciate its full glory.
So, I arrived in Paris again, bleary-eyed and exhausted after 24 hours on two planes. As I emerged from the airport, I felt just as hopeful and excited to explore the streets as I had those many years ago.
I jumped in my Uber, ready for the adventure to begin (and particularly ready for a shower), when just as we were starting to pull out… BAM.
My driver had slammed straight into a bus.
Rien n’est facile à Paris.
After a good half an hour of dawdling, as the guy fixed things up with the police, finally we were back on the road.
Later on, as we edged closer towards my accommodation, my driver said “Barbès? This is not a good neighbourhood.”
I rolled my eyes. “I’m staying in Montmartre.”
“Well, this… isn’t Montmartre.”
I sighed. It felt like déjà vu. Leaning forward I pointed to the Sacré-Coeur and the driver conceded. Barely.
I got out of the car to grab the key to the apartment, and it took all of 2 minutes of being back on the streets of Paris again until someone told me that I ‘needed to learn French’. I used some new meditation techniques I had learned in Thailand to slowly close my eyes and breath through the memory of all the hours and years I’d put into studying French to smile and laugh back, ‘Oh, silly me!’
Ah Paris, how I had missed you!
All that aside, after the bumpy start, the next three weeks presented such inspiration, such beauty, and such romance, that I felt like I was living in a dazzling dream or perfectly shot film. (Le Fabuleux Destin d’Erin Rooney, quoi!)
So, I wanted to share some of the best things I got to experience and learn, with a little more time to explore Paris more deeply.
Having the sweet time to ‘flâner’
Unlike the movie-like state of arriving in Paris in 2015 when I’d just landed my dream job, this time in 2024, I had actually just lost a great job from a round of redundancies. Emily in Paris, this was not.
In fact, it’s the first time I’ve been unemployed since I left university. And at times, it’s been kind of scary. There’s the fear of not knowing what’s next, what kind of job (if any) I will find, whether I’ll run out of money. In fact, this is probably the first time in my life where I haven’t been specifically working towards anything. And as someone who has always been driven by very structured, clearly defined achievements and outcomes, this is nothing short of terrifying.
But there is also a kind of beauty to it. I’ve been given the unique gift of time, and as a result I’ve been able to explore some of my passions and interests (like languages, art, literature, and history) with total freedom, and less pressure to move onto the next thing. Having the ability to ‘flâner’ in Paris, that is, simply wander around aimlessly, seeing where the day takes me, has already led me down some interesting paths.
For instance, by strolling into random book shops, one day I picked up a very cheeky play by Molière called Les femmes savantes. I later learned at the Musée Carnavalet that Louis XIV was one of the biggest supporters of Molière’s work. I felt this was yet another example of the fact that where there is economy, there is art (much like the Medici family funding the Renaissance). This prompted some thought about how patronage has enabled some of the greatest movements of art in the world.
I also strolled through the Maison Européene de la Photographie, an inspiring museum I would never have prioritised in Paris if I didn’t have much time, where I learned more about Annie Ernaux’s Nobel Prize-winning works at an exhibition, and later picked up one of her books (L’événement). Later, when I was ambling around Montmartre, I stumbled into a street poster for L’événement as a play, which led me to watch that very piece at the Théâtre de l'Atelier. This work has opened me up to a whole new style of presenting memoir in narrative form.
And another day, on a rainy run to the beautiful Parc Monceau, I literally stumbled into the Arc de Triomphe and took a very inspiring (but very wet) detour.
Sometimes, things can turn out great when you don’t know where you’re headed next.
The access to a broad range of museums and galleries
Another beautiful thing about having more time to spend exploring Paris was the opportunity to explore the vast range of museum and art gallery offerings, depending on what interested me on the day. I visited about one museum a day, and still didn’t get close to visiting them all in over three weeks. Such is the cultural depth of this city!
The Musée Carnavalet was easily my favourite (free) museum offering in Paris. I would say that this should be a must-go for anyone visiting Paris for the second or third time if you want to learn more about its origins, the amount that the city has withstood, and the changes in culture over the centuries. Plus, how can you go wrong with free entry?
I am such a big believer in the mission of this museum to educate people on the history of this city, which has been inhabited continuously since about 250 BC. They have made remains and artefacts from this history accessible to the public, displayed chronologically from the times of the Parisii fisherman that first settled along the borders of the Seine over 2000 years ago, up until the present day.
It is here that I learned the Latin emblem of Paris: Fluctuat nec mergitur (Beaten by the waves but does not sink). For me, this sums up the philosophy and immortality of Paris as a city, what it has withstood, and the legend it has become today rather perfectly.
On the topic of free activities, the Petit Palais was also a lovely way to spend an afternoon. Here you can find Monet, Degas, Cézanne paintings and many more inspiring pieces of art, all set in a beautiful building made for the 1900 World Expo.
Of the paid activities, I had a lot of fun at the Centre Pompidou, which was really something. From the architecture of the modern building (‘a beating heart’ in the centre of Paris), the spectacular view from the top, and of course, the exceptional modern art within, I could have spent a whole day in there alone.
Another favourite was the Musée Picasso. It did a fantastic job of taking you through a chronological journey of the different eras of Picasso’s work. Picasso’s ‘Eras Tour’, if you will! He really did reinvent himself a lot — something that was surely essential for artists at the turn of the 20th century, as photography grew in popularity and accessibility. The collection is also housed in a spectacular 17th century building, which was once the historic mansion of a tax collector in France, that later got taken by the State for public use during the French Revolution (go figure).
How to ‘fit in’ in Paris
In my past couple of weeks of observant wandering, I’ve watched the people of Paris, and almost felt a sense of judgment, as if I am never wearing the right thing, never speaking correctly, never carrying myself the right way.
I have noticed that my short skirts, stockings, cropped jackets, and heeled boots were very out of place in the temperamental spring weather. (Long woollen coats, jeans, sneakers, and at least three layers on only, please). So when I first arrived, I frantically tried to shop at stylish Parisian brands like Sézane and From Future, hoping to fit in, and ‘become Parisian’ as it were. But I reached a point where I just gave up, and accepted my dorky tourist status. Try fitting all those fabulous outfits in one suitcase for 6 months!!
I have also done my very best to speak to people in French. I’ve learned that you must say ‘Bonjour’ upon entering any shop, cafe or restaurant, otherwise you will be considered very rude (common sense, really). But against my best efforts, people still reply back in English at least 50% of the time. Mostly, I try to just push on in French, because after all, we are in France. But with my stubborn anglophone accent, it feels like yet another way that I will never fit in!
Perhaps better to just accept it.
The influence of influencers
I’ve been astounded by the sheer number of American tourists in Paris (spring break, anyone?), and dare I say it, the influence that they have had on the culture. Some of the charm of Paris is lost when you walk into a restaurant and the staff just speak English to everyone, knowing it will just be easier.
It also feels like there is something sad about pâtisseries starting to do everything for the TikTok/Instagram hype of tourists and influencers, such as the viral hybrid crookie pastry (admittedly, this was actually delicious… just not very authentic).
And yes, I’m looking at you too, Cédric Grolet. (He is a talented pastry chef, no doubt, but 17€ (approx $28 AUD) for a small dessert is pushing it).
However, with more time in Paris, the Instagram algorithm started targeting me with French influencer content, which really helped me find some local food gems. Ellevousguide pointed me to the best chocolate mousse of my life at Chapon Chocolat!
The French sense of humour
The French have a unique sense of humour. They’re known for their stand up comedy, cinema, and bandes-dessinées. But one of the hardest parts of learning a second language is understanding the cultural context, slang, and comic timing involved in a country’s sense of humour. (God help people learning English in Australia)
So on a recommendation from the owner of my apartment, I went to the Jamel Comedy Club one night, which was a surprising highlight! It’s owned by a famous comedian in France, Jamel Debbouze, and hosts showcase nights for French stand up comics. The night I went, they even had a band! It was very funny — but it would have been even better if I spoke better French to pick up every line and joke. If you ever need to test the level of your second language… I’d advise you to go to a comedy show.
I also discovered Sebastian Marx, an American comedian who has lived in France for over 20 years, and does stand up in French. I saw his latest show ‘On est bien là’, which had me in absolute stitches. He covered everything from raising children in France, cultural differences between France and the US, and linguistic faux pas. Hearing an anglophone speak French also made things much easier to understand, spoken at a slower speed and with less unusual slang! Would recommend!
Drawing inspiration from each arrondissement
One of my favourite parts of this trip was the ability to immerse myself in multiple quartiers to discover new perspectives and angles on Paris.
I read a semi-recent survey of Parisian locals (admittedly pre-Covid), and found that their favourite quartiers were the Quartier Latin / Saint-Germain-des-Prés and Le Marais. I learned that rich people liked to shop more in Opéra, whereas younger people preferred Châtelet/Le Marais. Very interestingly, the votes were highly spread out amongst the quartiers, and there were no clear winners. So, I just resolved to see them all!
Paris started to feel small, and I felt I could walk most areas within 3 weeks (try doing that in Sydney!) and managed to visit a good 17 of 20 arrondissements. But I have to say that in the end, Montmartre and Le Marais won my heart the most.
Montmartre for the beauty of the neighbourhood, the cute cafés for people watching, and the unique views of Paris. Plus, having the time to (at least pretend!) to live the life of the incredible artists who have visited and lived there, like Renoir and Picasso, was truly inspiring.
Le Marais for its trendy shops, cool fashion, and bougie (or in Parisian, ‘bobo’) feel.
The level of choice of grocery stores, fashion, cafés, and bakeries in both neighbourhoods really astounded me. I guess living in a city of 13 million allows that!
The sheer beauty of Paris (plus a few lights and shades)
Finally, one thing I had forgotten about Paris is just how… grand it is. Every street you walk down offers a new secret, a little hint of beauty when the light strikes it a certain way. Take for instance, the delicate cherry blossoms emerging in spring, which contrast with the curated design of the parks and buildings. As soon as the sun comes out, the city pops with colour. I learned much more about the Haussmann project this trip, which under the instruction of Napoleon III, demolished old buildings in the 19th century and transformed the buildings to the characteristic stone facades and wrought iron balconies we know today to enhance the beauty of Paris.
But, having three weeks here, I also got to feel a bit more of what the local life might be like… past the dream. When I arrived, it was beautifully sunny and crisp, as if I had walked onto the set of a movie. However, with more time, I could see that the spring weather could be kind of miserable. The rain felt like it would go on forever, and when the sun came out, everything instantly felt more beautiful and hopeful (perhaps not news to anyone who has lived in the UK). As a side note, I couldn’t help but notice watching Emily in Paris as I lay very sick in my bed that they only set that show in summer — there is no way they would be wearing any of those outfits in spring!
Overall, my three, dreamlike weeks in Paris were simply wonderful.
It is interesting how we can revisit places at different stages of life, and feel both a nostalgia, as if nothing has changed, and at the same time that same sense of wonder of seeing a familiar place in a different light.
This is what I tried to do this time around. Remove my expectations, pretend I was visiting for the first time (even though it was really the third). And at 31-years-old, the experience was just as rich as at 23 — if not more so! So, with that, I hope that I will see Paris again one day, again with a fresh perspective.
I would recommend to anyone who has not yet fallen in love with the city to simply spend more time. And if even then you feel nothing… there may not be hope for you.
But for now, it’s time to explore more regions of France, this time Normandy and Brittany. Au revoir!
Reads on the Road
L’événement by Annie Ernaux
The highlight of my reading in Paris was definitely Nobel Prize winner Annie Ernaux’s book L’événement (translated to ‘Happening’ in English). I don’t think I’ve ever read a more candid, beautifully written memoir, and certainly not on such a heavy topic. The book centres around Ernaux’s experience searching for an abortion after she accidentally got pregnant as a 23-year-old in 1963, when abortion was illegal in France and doctors had a discretion not to perform them. The book felt particularly topical with France just recently enshrining the right to abortion into their constitution. It was also interesting to see a play version of this text while in Paris, which captured the trauma of the situation and the finesse of Ernaux’s prose very beautifully in a one-woman show.